Piled high with colorful toppings, Hiyashi Chuka feels like summer on a plate. You can top it with whatever you like—ham, cucumber, tomato, shrimp, or all of the above. My personal favorite is sweet-and-salty tsukudani shiitake mushrooms. Since this is a dish for sweltering midsummer days, the sauce should be bright and refreshing—never too sour or sweet—so that every bite cools you down.

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 small English or Japanese cucumber

1 medium tomato

3–4 slices ham

8 shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon sake

2 large eggs

3/4 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon potato starch or cornstarch dissolved in 1 teaspoon water

4 crab sticks

Shiitake Tsukudani (see page 23)

½ pound (250 g) fresh ramen or lo mein noodles

Japanese mustard (karashi), optional

Hiyashi Chuka Sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 tablespoons chicken broth without herbs

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds, lightly ground

Instrctions

1. sauce

To make the sauce, whisk together the sugar, rice vinegar, broth and soy sauce in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves completely. Add the sesame oil and seeds and stir until well combined.

2. Prepare the toppings

Sprinkle ½ teaspoon salt over the cucumber and roll it gently on the cutting board to remove bitterness and brighten the color.

Cut into thin diagonal slices, then into fine strips.

Cut the tomato into wedges. Slice the ham into thin strips. Sprinkle the shrimp with sake and steam just until they turn pink. Cover and let finish cooking in the residual heat. Shred the crab sticks by hand into thin, fluffy fibers.

3. Thin omelet

Beat the eggs with ¼ teaspoon salt, the sugar, and the potato starch solution. (The starch provides elasticity, helping the egg hold together in delicate sheets.) Heat a lightly greased pan over medium-low heat, pour in half the mixture, and swirl so it covers the entire surface. Cook until the surface dries, then flip carefully and cook briefly on the other side.

Once cooled, cut into quarters, stack, and slice into thin strips.

4. Boil noodles

Bring about 2 quarts (2 liters) of water to a boil in a large pot.

Add the noodles and stir immediately to prevent sticking. Cook over high heat, stirring to keep the noodles moving. If the pot begins to boil over, reduce the heat slightly or add a splash of water.

Cook according to the package directions. Rinse and shock the noodles. Drain thoroughly and divide between two shallow serving bowls.

5. Arrange toppings

Arrange the toppings attractively over the noodles.

Pour 3-4 tablespoons of the chilled sauce over each serving. Serve with a dab of Japanese mustard on the side, if desired.

Toss everything together and enjoy!

Tip

For a creamier dressing, whisk 2 tablespoons sesame paste or tahini plus 1 teaspoon peanut butter into the sauce.

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